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+ The Rigorous Trek
After
filling the holy coconut with ghee and packing the essentials for
offering to Lord Ayyappa in the Irumudi (called ketunira), the Guru
places the sacred Irumudi on the head of the pilgrims chanting Saranam.
The pilgrims leave the place without looking at anyone or bidding
goodbye to family or friends. Walking barefoot the pilgrims proceed
to realise his Self and attain Lord Ayyappa.
There
are three routes to Sabarimala (0929 North 7706 East)
(a)
The Erumeli route - the most arduous - the pilgrims cover about
61 km on foot through forest and hill track.
(b)
The Vandiperiyar route - starts at 94.4 km stone on the Kotayam
- Kumili road.
(c)
The Chalakayam route. - the easiest of all. Chalakayam is near Pampa
river. Sannidhanam is just 8 km from here.
From
Tamil Nadu:
1.
Shencottai - Punalur - Pathanamthitta --170 Kms.
2. Kumali - Vandiperiyar - Erumeli - Plappalli--180 Kms.
Description
of Erumeli Route
The
Erumeli route, used by Ayyappan himself during his forest expedition
to kill Mahishi is described here.
| 1 |
Erumeli |
It
is about 56 km from Kottayam. There are shrines for Lord Dharmasastha
and Vavar Swamy (the Muslim lieutenant of Lord Ayyappa).
The first timers to Sabarimala, called Kanniswamy, perform
pettatullal. Pettatullal is painting the face with colours
and dancing with wooden weapons to make one look odd.
The essence of this practice is to give up ones' ego and surrender
to Lord Ayyappa. They go round the Ayyappan Temple and Vavar
Shrine and later bathe in the river.
Then the temple is visited again to seek authorization from
Lord Ayyappa to tread the sacred hill Sabari. Later the pilgrims
leave Erumeli under the guidance of their Guru for Sannidhanam.
|
| 2 |
Perur
Thodu |
It
is a river about 4 km from Erumeli. Lord Ayyappa rested here
during his expedition. It is from here the rise begins. Giving
alms here is important. By giving alms, one is disposing of
all dharma and seeking asylum in Ayyappa. The forest beyond
Perur Thodu is poongavanam (Ayyappan's garden).
|
| 3. |
Kaalaketi |
About
10 km from Perur Thodu is Kalaketti. The legend says that
Lord Shiva, Ayyappa's father, came on his ox and tied it here
and witnessed Lord Ayyappa killing Mahishi. There is a shrine
where the pilgrims light camphor and break coconuts.
|
| 4. |
Azhutha |
Azhutha
river, a tributary of Pampa, is about 2 kms from Kalaketti.
On the far side of the river is the steep Azhutha hill, famous
for its arduous track. In the 2 km of steep ascent there is
hardly anyone who does not shed tears. At the summit of Azhutha
is Kallidumkunnu. The pilgrims drop the pebble taken by them
from Azhutha river here. This is done as the mortal remains
of Mahishi was cast off from here and filled with stones.
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| 5. |
Azhutha
River |
- |
| 6.
|
Kallidumkunnu |
- |
| 7. |
Inchipparakota |
`The
next important place is the Inchipparakota where there is Kotayil
Sastha shrine. Pilgrims offer prayers here and break coconuts.
From here the pilgrims descent the slippery path carefully.
The descent ends at Karimala thodu (canal) with Azhutha hill
on one side and Karimala hill on the other. Pilgrims rest here
for a while. |
| 8. |
Mukkuli |
- |
| 9. |
Kariyilam
Thodu |
- |
| 10. |
Karimalai |
Karimala
is the abode of elephants which visits the Karimala canal to
drink water. Pilgrims light the aazhi (campfire) to protect
themselves from wild animals and cold weather. Karimala hill
consists of seven levels and is climbed in stages. As the ascent
of 5 km is difficult the pilgrims continuously chant saranams.
On top
of Karimala the terrain is flat suitable for the pilgrims to
rest. It is interesting to see the Nazhikkinar - a well within
a well with fresh spring like water. Prayers are then offered
to Karimalanthan, Kochukaduthaswami and Bhagawathi, all deities.
From here after the exhausting descent one reaches the Pampa
river that is about 5 kms.
|
| 11.
|
Periya
Annai Vattam |
- |
| 12. |
Seriya
Annai Vattam |
- |
| 13. |
Pampa
Nadi |
Pampa
is the most important and holy spot on the way to Sannidhanam.
It is here that Lord Ayyappa was found by King Rajasekara. The
Pampa river is as holy as the Ganges. The Pampa water purifies
one from curse and evil. |
Trek
from Pampa to Sannidhanam
| |
Pampa
Feast : |
Pampa
Annadhanam (feast) and Pampa Vilakku are important rituals followed
at the Pampa bank. Pilgrim groups prepare feast with the provisions
taken from the Irumudi of the pilgrims. Thousands of pilgrims
are fed at Pampa. When a group of pilgrims are ready to feed
the fellow pilgrims they display a large papad outside their
cottage. It is usually the kanniswamy who are fed first, as
they are considered to be Lord Ayyappan himself. After the feast
the Guru is honoured by pilgrims prostrating before him and
offering him the Gurudakshina.
Kanni Ayyappas move from kitchen to kitchen
collecting the ashes which are considered to be very sacred.
It is done with the belief that Lord Ayyappa would have had
the feast in one of the cottages in the disguise of a pilgrim.
The ash is taken home as prasad.
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Pampa
Vilakku :
|
At
sunset the pilgrims believe that Lord Ayyappan will be present
at the banks of Pampa and the cottages are decorated with lights
and candles. Small floats are decorated with lights called Pampa
Vilakku and are let in the Pampa river.
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The
next morning after a dip in the cold Pampa river and performing
pitru darpanam (offering to ones' departed soul) the pilgrims
start their ascent towards the hill Neelimala after worshipping
at the temple of Lord Ganapathi, Lord Rama (avathar of Balaji)
and Lord Hanuman. On the foot of the Neeli hill is the representative
of the King of Pandalam. The pilgrims offer their respects to
the representative. After seeking the permission of the representative
to visit the shrine of Lord Ayyappa they proceed with their
journey. From here the Sannidhanam is about 6 km. The neeli
hill is as difficult as the Azhutha and Karimala. The top of
Neeli hill is called Appachi medu. Here there are two abysses
- Appachi kuzhi and Ippachi kuzhi. Kanniswamys throw rice balls
here to calm down the evil spirits present around the place.
From this point the ground is almost even. Some distance from
here is the Sabari peetam. |
| |
Sabari
Peetam :
|
This
was the Kota where Shri Sabari, in Sri Rama's era, performed
Tapas. Pilgrims worship here breaking coconuts, firing crackers
and lighting camphor. |
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Saramkuthi
:
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Half
way between Sabari Peetam and Sannidhanam is Saramkuthi. Kanniswamy
leave the wooden arrow they picked from Erumeli here. |
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Patinettampadi
: |
The
holy Patinettampadi (18 steps) is 15 minute walk from Saramkuthi.
The Golden steps is such a magnificent sight. Pilgrims chant
saranams loudly. After breaking the coconut they climb the 18
steps to have the darshan of Lord Ayyappa |
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